"The Pictorial History of the County of Lancaster,"
published by George Routledge, London 1854

…The Roebuck gave us hospitality -such hospitality as can be experienced nowhere but in Cliviger. Shivering with cold, we entered a large kitchen, where was a true Lancashire fire; and stools, tables, platters, nay, the floor itself, of a shining whiteness resembling the purest snow. But what language can do justice to the ham? Not fewer than fifty fine hams hung suspended from the ceiling! And then, who would know how delicious a flavour a well cooked potatoe has, must first visit Lancashire, and then proceed to Cliviger. Lancashire is said to be the first English county which grew the potato. The finest kinds it still produces. The oxnoble potatoe, though it has had its day, retains a celebrity which even a Wellington does not disown, for the memorial of the one may be seen suspended not far from that of the other before many a village inn in Lancashire.

We passed one or two fine sheets of water, in which is good fishing, and came to Holme Chapel. The scenery here is less wild, and has a warmer as well as a more pleasing aspect. Looking towards Burnley we saw a number of interesting objects, spread over a country gradually opening and sinking down into the plains. The vegetation was rich; the brook, whose head we had just passed, was here and there confined and dammed up, making good pools for the angler, and adding to the beauty of the country. A small hill lying somewhat to the left attracted our attention. It was in shape something like a large truncated cone, and being planted with a tuft of trees, made a singular and pleasing object in the prospect. Its name is Dyneley Knoll.

Holme Chapel is a comparatively modern building erected in 1788, on the spot where a rude but picturesque edifice formerly stood. This was originally a chancery, founded upon the dissolution of Whalley Abbey, which came into the possession of the Whitaker family in the reign of Elizabeth. The chantry was soon dissolved, and the place, by a singular fate, remained without a minister for the space of two hundred years. In 1796, Thomas Dunham Whitaker was licensed to it on his own petition.

The old structure was diminutive but venerable, and was surrounded by a grove of sycamores swarming with rooks; "so," to cite the words of Dr. Whitaker himself, "that when there was any competition of voices at all, cawing drowned the parson's saw."

The parents of the historian of Whalley lie buried in this chapel. Dr. William Whitaker, his father, was a clergyman of multifarious learning, a rigid Calvinist, and a most prolific writer on controversial and dogmatical subjects. These are the terms in which Bishop Hall characterises him:-"The honour of our schools, and the angel of our church, than whom our age saw nothing more memorable;_what clearness of judgment, what sweetness of style, what gravity of person, what grace of carriage was in that man! Who ever saw him without reverence, or heard him without wonder?" The Whitakers are descended from the first families of Lancashire-the Sherburnes, Townleys, Stanleys, and Harringtons.

The hall was originally of wood. The centre and eastern wing were rebuilt in 1603. The west remained of wood till 1717, and had one or more private closets for the concealing of priests, the family having continued recusants, at least to the latter end of the reign of Elizabeth.

From Holme we passed through a less elevated but pleasing district to Ormerod. "In this township," relates Dr.Whitaker, "is still preserved an instrument of ancient and approved efficacy in suppressing the license of female tongues, namely a Brank. With this unenviable head-dress the culprit in the olden time wasted about in a disgraceful state of penal silence.

In passing along we made diligent inquiry for this extraordinary machine, but to no purpose; all with whom we spoke, declared that use for many such instruments could be found in the neighbourhood, and seemed to regret that it was not within their reach. According to Plott, this "artifice is much to be preferred to the ducking-stool, which not only endangers the health of the party, but also gives the tongue liberty 'twixt every dip; to neither of which is this at all liable, it being such a bridle for the tongue as not only quite deprives them of speech, but brings shame for the transgression and humility thereupon before 'tis taken off; which being put upon the offender by order of the magistrate, and fastened with a padlock behind, she is led round the town by an officer, to her shame; nor is it taken off till after the party begins to shew all external signs imaginable of humiliation and amendment."*

The Cross of Holme yet remains. It has escaped the ravages of time with less detriment than many similar objects of the same kind in that neighbourhood, some of which; have received more injury from wanton bad usage than from a long course of years; it is pleasing to reflect, that a better spirit seems now to have arisen, and we sincerely hope it will become universal.

* Since writing the above, we have learned that the late Dr. Whitaker was in possession of a "Brank, ar Lucy's Muzzle," when he wrote the History of Whalley, but the present occupier of Holme, T. H. Whitaker, Esq., a grandson of Dr. Whitaker, is ignorant of what has become of it.

There is a classical fable which wears a similar aspect as the machine mentioned in the text. Poor Chione! She was not: satisfied with being loved by Apollo; she must needs allow her tongue a license against Diana. The goddess would not endure the scorn, and shot an arrow right through the peccant member. The expedient was more effective than merciful.

Reproduced with permission